Exploratory Study of the Exquisite Embellishment of Mukaish Embroidery in Contemporary Female Formal Wear in Punjab

Abstract

Aim of the Study: The interest is to explore the options of creatively incorporation of Mukaish as the new trends have modified the choice of designers for heavily embellished garments in order to create the contemporary formal and luxury look. This heavy embellishment causes labour intensive days and high cost for the creation of formal wear. The research focuses on how the designers include Mukaish embroidery to create a look of dense work.

Methodology: The exploratory case study research is conducted as questionnaire-based interviews. The questionnaire was a complex of structured and open-ended questions as well. The series of questions in the interview has allowed the researcher to access the people’s choices about the Mukesh embroidery and its inclusion in the luxury or formal wear in Pakistan.

Findings: Mukaish is the centuries old crafts of the subcontinent and has a significant impact in the cultural heritage of Pakistan and India. Mukaish is the technique of metallic embroidery where the artisans use very fine thin strips of metal, inserted with a specific manual technique in to the fabric structural weave which has primely designed pattern on the surface. In India and in Pakistan, very few artisans are left who still practise the art of Mukaish embroidery.

Conclusion: This was initially categorised as Muslim craft in the subcontinent and historically it was not adopted by many artisans as it was very expensive and labour intensive. This is still the same trend of practice of Mukaish today. There is a need to work towards the promotion of this craft for its revival. As per surveys of the study it was brough into limelight that there is dire need of making this craft more visible to the community nationally and internationally. The research also concluded that the fusion of Mukaish art with embellishment in the Couture work and its limitations has to be promoted.