Exploring the Needlework Heritage of South Punjab: Tracing the Tradition of Chikankari Embroidery in Bahawalpur

Abstract

Aim of the Study: Chikankari is an historical hand embroidery technique that is associated with the South Punjab region. Chikankari was majorly patronized by the Nawabs and elites of Bahawalpur. This research is exploratory research where the original Chikankari work images from the local artisans are taken from the south Punjab, Bahawalpur.

Methodology: The data gathered to compile this research has been taken from the local artisans of Bahawalpur. This research is based on qualitative analysis where different embroidery samples are comprehensively viewed for the Chikankari techniques executed. The research paper provides detailing of the array of stitches utilized in creation of this craft. It also involves the analysis of the stitch techniques, motifs, and color scheme which create a link between the historical and contemporary practice of Chikankari.

Findings: The findings showcase that the Shadow work (Herringbone Stitch), Bour Tanka (French Knot), and Bharwa Tanka (Satin Stitch) are commonly used stitches in the Chikankari work. The motifs that are commonly used in the Chikankari work are the Paisley and floral motifs. The use of traditional stitches and historical motifs is a continuation of legacy in the modern world.

Conclusion: Chikankari is an intricate embroidery process that has been patronized by the Nawabs for centuries and has not lost its popularity. This research includes a comprehensive analysis of the techniques, stitches, artistry, history, and culture that distinguishes this embroidery technique from others. Chikankari originated from Lucknow but it is especially known as the crafts of the Nawabs. The cities of Bahawalpur and Lucknow are the cities of Nawabs, and this art has flourished in this area.